General Category => Simplexes with Non-Original Engines => Topic started by: carryall on December 31, 2017, 11:11:32 AM
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I'm debating on installing a sediment bowl but, the usual place on the flat bar under the tank is a bit close to the top of my engine. Can you think of a reason why a guy couldn't/shouldn't mount it directly to the gas tank outlet?
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Paul ,
Do you mean something like :
(https://s26.postimg.org/z5r74q0rt/HPIM1719_zps533f697f.jpg)
The later models had them like that^ .
Pete . :)
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Thanks PD. All the pics I saw had them on the bar and was wondering if I was missing something. Not sure if I'm going to continue using the glass filter if I swap to the bowl but, I do kinda like the idea of hard line for fuel. I'll just need a section of rubber line to connect between the hardline to the carb nipple I think. That would help with the vibration produced also I think? Did you use brake line for yours?
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I'm not sure what year they changed, but all the Automatics have the sediment bowl directly on the tank. Early simplex used a larger fuel bowl, the later smaller. Wayne has new Tillotson fuel bowls available again, as they started making them again. They are more money than the made in china ines, but, IMHO, vastly better.
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Dumb question but, I see by the picture that it's not full of fuel so, how does it draw gas if it's not all the full?
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Dumb question but, I see by the picture that it's not full of fuel so, how does it draw gas if it's not all the full?
That's PD's bike, so who knows, but they are full of fuel on all my bikes that run! LOL
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OK. I'm assuming his was just sitting awhile when he took picture. LOL I thought maybe there was a pick-up tube that I wasn't seeing or something. I've seen upside down ones with filters in them on Onan generators.
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That's right . No one has a bike just like mine . ;)
Normally , even on my bike , the bowl is completely filled . Except just after I hook the fuel line to the carb . Then there's air trapped in the line , which rises to the top of the line where it exits the bowl housing . The bubble will sit in the brass Land upper part of the housing , blocking fuel flow until I release the bubble via a screw I installed in the brass L ( after that^ pic was shot ) .
Then all is well .
The fuel line in in that pic was painted copper . Look to the lower left and you can make out traces of copper showing through .
Since , I have been using a stiff walled whitish plastic tubing to directly replace the copper . It uses the same compression fittings and has been working nicely for about a year .
I switched because seeing fuel in the tube put me a step closer to knowing the carb was actually getting fuel .
Pete . :)
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I myself ran copper tubing all the way to the carburator and I put a full loop for the vibration
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As seen here.
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I'm considering using this nice S.S. high pressure (F.I.) 3/16" fuel line I've had left over from a "high buck" bike project I did awhile back but, the AN fittings needed for them are kinda "showy" and expensive. I might be able to adapt something to use it tho? Hard part is separating the braiding back a bit from the Teflon core and then getting a good seal without the "proper fittings". Luckily, it's only gravity pressure tho.
I wonder if it's same O.D. as that plastic/Teflon line you used and painted copper? Did that use the brass ring type compression fittings P.D.?
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Paul ,
Yes . I used standard compression fittings for copper tubing . The brass 'rings' fit the stiff walled plastic very nicely and seal fine .
Looking at your braided line , couldn't you use a standard barbed brass fitting and maybe a band clamp to finish it ?
Have the screw to the inside , so it's not as visible .
(https://s26.postimg.org/xjqiglg3d/screenshot_33.png)
Pete . :)
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I've tried them in the past but not had much luck with getting a perfect seal. I may try softening it with a torch or lighter this time first... I may try a piece of 5/32" rubber fuel line over the Teflon part of the line on each end also, with shrink tubing to finish off the look. I'll figure something out...eventually.
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I've tried them in the past but not had much luck with getting a perfect seal. I may try softening it with a torch or lighter this time first... I may try a piece of 5/32" rubber fuel line over the Teflon part of the line on each end also, with shrink tubing to finish off the look. I'll figure something out...eventually.
Maybe try a few wraps of gas rated thread tape on the barb before slipping the hose on . Then clamp .
Pete . :)
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Well all the plastic tubing I've ever used had a metal sleeve to go inside to help with stability. I have also seen both plastic and metal sleeves used to seal against the outer wall of the tubing.
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I'll look into that. That sounds like the ticket to have a rubber sleeve that seals between both the wall of the plastic line and the barb. As for the sediment bowl, I wish there was a small sediment bowl that also had a filter in it like the old model A had. Wonder if a guy could adapt a small paper filter with a spring in the bottom?
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I tried the braided stainless line but didn't really like the look of it with the multiple brass fittings I ended up needing to connect different sized lines. (1/4", 3/16", 5/32") so I went ahead and replaced everything with new rubber fuel lines and barbs then used the chrome cover over it. It had me "stumped" at first when I opened the petcock on the bowl and only a coupe drops came out tho. I had forgotten to open up the carbs petcock to allow fuel/air flow thru. LOL. Fuel line now seems to "flow back" towards exhaust I think. I did notice a warning on the sediment bowl to not use any fuel containing more than 10% ethanol but, that's not a issue since I always use "real" gas in all of my bikes regardless.
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Looking good Paul! I think the warning about ethanol is because those made in China fuel bowls use a rubber gasket, and we all know what happens to rubber in ethanol. Wayne does have cork gaskets as replacements for those, so if you haven’t already, have him send you a couple next time you order from him.
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I would guess there's rubber gaskets inside where the on/off valve goes thru also that would need replacement you think? (BTW, it's made in Taiwan LOL)
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That might just do the job , Paul .
You're right about a small 'seal' . It's held in place by the brass nut around the screw .
I wouldn't think you'd have to replace either gasket for a long while using pure gas .
Pete . :)
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Paul, I would assume you are correct, but I didn't have any issue with that on the only import one I have used. The main gasket started leaking within a couple of months. Here in NY we can not buy real gas, some I'm stuck with the ethanol crap.
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I have seen those have a fiber washer behind the packing nut and then the needle valve seats metal to metal much the way a float valve is.
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I have seen those have a fiber washer behind the packing nut and then the needle valve seats metal to metal much the way a float valve is.
My original Simplex bowl valve had a fiber washer . I replaced it with gas rated thread tape which seems to be working nicely .
I had a cork gasket from Wayne installed . It lasted maybe two years before disintegration . I'm pretty sure ethanol had to do with that . Currently I have a rubber gasket used by Briggs & Stratton ( # 692190 ) and that seems to be doing it's job .
Pete . :)
Pete . :)
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Thanks all of you for the info and sharing your experience and knowledge. Hopefully I won't have any issues for awhile. Either way, I may order/find replacements to have on hand "in-case" and add them to my spare parts box.