General Category => Restoration Projects => Topic started by: kartjockey on May 05, 2013, 02:37:59 PM
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So here is what I have been working on lately. I have added 6" to the upper tubes and 9" inches to the lower tubes. Engine plate is 1" closer to the ground which helped out with the kickstand 'lean' about right. Made my own rear drop outs which will have the adjuster screws on the axle. I have just been tack welding everything for now until I get closer to the final mock-up. Taking the tank off though to final weld and then have it chromed. And maybe a few other parts. The front of the tank will be mounted with one of those bonded rubber bushings pressed into the tube there. I used brushed stainless for the seat trim piece and I have contacted Heathers Leathers with a print so they know where I need the logo. I am just buying a piece of leather and will assemble the seat myself. There isn't any dishing to the pan so should be a piece of cake. I asked Wayne at Heathers Leathers if he had ever seen any original seats with out the logo and he said yes.
So.....what does everyone think so far?!
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looks good ,Ido not have enough room for the trans with the eng. that i am using I was thinking that if I strech mine enough I could use the stock tansmision. Bill Marcum 8)
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Looking good Tom! What engine are you planning on putting in?
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6 & 9 inches? I'm planning a stretched version to but wasn't thinking that far. I will be adding several inches to the forks but using a motor with a trans. Together. You've got a good start so far I've not even started yet. I am still playing with the trailer to get them there. ::)
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Still planning on running the 5hp Briggs. Looks to be the perfect amount of room now that I have removed the old tank mounting bracket. Should work out well for the jackshaft too. Really want the jackshaft so I can incorporate the disc brake on it. Planning on putting some vertical frame struts back in also. And hopefully a bobbed rear fender and maybe no fender on the front. Too soon to tell yet though!
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Interesting ... Looks rather uncomfortable , but , interesting none the less .
I do like your workmanship . ;)
Pete . :)
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I just confirmed the leather for my seat from Heathers Leathers. I thought it to be interesting how the logo is put on. He said the leather is place under the logo die and left under pressure for 24 hours. I guess that might be what it takes to keep it there. I have tooled some leather by hand just by a mallet and marking punches. There a bunch of good guys there!
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Great: I've wanted to extend mine for 2 years now.Does the stretch raise or lower the entire bike?
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Did you have to heat and bend the tubes up by the gas tank??
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Yes I did have to heat the frame tubes at the front of the frame as the extensions on the frame would actually cross each other if you don't. I made new rear drop-outs but I was able to save the old ones and could have reused them. I used heavy wall tubing 6" long to join the extensions to the existing frame and drilled holes in the side of the tubing to plug weld through so I can keep the joining lines clean looking. Plus the tubing inside is hollow and I could run wires through it if I want to. Frame tubing is 1" OD X .065 wall thickness so I used 7/8" tubing for to join to the frame with but had to skin it down to .855" to slip it inside of extensions and frame. I set it all up to achieve some lowering and ended up with 1". Everything is just tack welded until I finish mock up of side frame struts and jackshaft supports. Don't want to have to cut a lot of weld back off if I need to back up.
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Thanks: I happen to have some 7/8" that I made some radius rods for my "T" bucket. That'll work.
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What is your wheelbase length NOW?
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I'll measure the wheelbase on Monday.
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While you are measuring take one from motor mount to the bottom of the tank. Please
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The wheel base on my 'stretch' is 56". It measures 16" from the bottom of the tank to the motor plate and 5 1/2" from the motor plate to the ground. I also measured my stock '48. It has a 47 1/2" wheel base and the motor plate is 6 1/2" from the ground.
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Thanks Kartjockey. I'm thinking around 53" AND I have the hanging 1945 gas tank. Should work.
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Kartjockey-How long are the 7/8" pieces that you had to put inside of the tubing? I was thinking maybe 6" long would be fine??
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They were 6" long each.3" into each side. Had to skin them down in the lathe to make them a slip fit into the frame tube.
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Thanks: Looks like I'm on the right track.
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The 'Stretch' is moving along slowly but I finally got the frame supports burned out and tacked on. There is nothing like CNC machinery! Decided to put my own spin on the front end. I am making new spring rods and then going to cover them and the forks with polished aluminum tubing. I already have the tubing. Sending the fuel tank, the steering neck bearing races and the four springer bolts out for chrome tomorrow. I have my brake caliper and master cylinder on the way and need to focus on the jackshaft next.
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Good thing hobbies aren't meant to be 'on the clock' ...
Looks like it's coming along nicely , Tom .
I think you should change that S
I
M
P
L
E
X to SIMPLEX , 90° to the right .
But , that's just me . ;)
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Had to put some kind of support back in between the upper and lower tubes as I had removed all the existing factory ones.
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Looks logical to me.
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So, recently, I got my tank back from the chrome shop. I ended up sending it to Brown's in Kentucky. Pd and a guy I work with actually recommended the same place so after sending out some pics for quotes to a few places I decided on Browns. They turned out to be top notch in quality and service. My parts came back professionally packed. They called to let me know when they received it and sent an email when it was on its way back.
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Tom, only about 12 days left! Get cracking!!
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Tom , you are leaving that tank on the table as a conversation piece , right ? ;)
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WOW: That is blinding.NICE!
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Ok. Picture Emerald green powder coating every where that doesn't shine. Chrome springs from Wayne and some stainless half moons on top of the springs.
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That should look sharp , Tom .
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Any updates lately?
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Nothing lately. Been busy on the wrong stuff. But back on it this week. Drawing up my motor mount plate to have it burned out
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Thanks: Post when you can. I'm stretching mine this Winter but thinking about heating and bending the LOWER tubes to gain a little seat height as this will lower the drop out which raises the height. I think??
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Lookin good Tom...that front end looks sharp.
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Great Work!! Very cool, I like it.
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thanks. I have been out of sync with my projects back am slowly getting back to them.
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Ya best hurry up on that count , Tom . It'll be snowing by months end up there . ;)
Pete . :)
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Made some changes this week! Off with the old motor mount and on with the new. Plus I added the plate for my jack shaft set-up.
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Once I have my alignment the way I want it I will pop the plates in the mill and put the necessary holes in them. Then weld them on.
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Lookin' good .
Is it snowing yet ? ;)
Pete . :)
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Tom, Just a fyi. I found this rim and matching tire that I was going to use on my stretched ride but all extra projects are back burner for now. had a major breakdown on my tractor and got to funnel all extra cash to the replacement. Just thinking somebody might like them. They are listed on ebay and yes I am still moving around down here just can't find the light of day to get anything done.
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This is a very good looking build......how do you think it would look with the extension done at half of what you did? so 4 1/2"
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Maybe only half as very good looking ? ;)
When creating , sometimes things have to be redone a couple of times before it's pleasing to the builders eye .
Pete . :)
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I like PD's answer!. I chose the length to ensure I had enough room for a jack shaft set-up.
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I like PD's answer!. I chose the length to ensure I had enough room for a jack shaft set-up.
I thought you stretched it that much so Travis could ride it comfortably! lol
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I'm thinking about a 3" stretch on mine. But may have to go more to get about a 53" wheel base.
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I think if you do this and dont use a custom tank...it wont fit properly? you lifted the bars by bending up over the tank..true?
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I did build my own tank but it closely resembles a Simplex tank. (there are pics on here)
I have had it mocked up and have plenty of room for a 5hp Briggs between the spark plug and fuel tank. Plus I am not using the mounting method that Simplex used to mount the tank originally. I will try to get some pics up soon.
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okay..I looked closer and I see where you heated the bars up by the top...your bike looks good...do you have a cheap chrome shop nearby or something? Here in CT that woulda been expensive
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Not cheap chrome but a very nice job. 7 layers or something like that. (Browns out of Kentucky. They were great to business with) I had to heat the bars so I could realign the pipes at the rear dropouts. Otherwise they actually crossed after I extended them. Plus the radius of the bends at the front differed from my '48 and I had actually made the tank before I bought my frame so I used the radius of my '48 to fit my tank up to. The '52 frame had a tighter radius and opening it up a bit helped it all work out.
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Nice job.....any new pics?
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Here is a shot of the tank installed. Shows ample room to get at the spark plug.
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OK. So to prove I have not been slacking off on my custom( now affectionately referred to as the 'S2') here is what I have been up to! After hours upon hours of researching the web I realized I would never find a hub that would truely satisfy me. Even bought a few but either they were undernourished in some way or dimensionally didn't fit. So to the lathe I went! This hub has sealed ball bearings. 1 3/8" OD X 5/8 bore. I have a 5/8 shaft through them with a tube in between the bearings to keep the inner races from trying to squeeze together when the wheel is tightened in the forks. Stainless washers for spacers and stainless outer washers are 'doweled' to the dropouts on location with each other with reference to the springer pivot bolts. I had to make the mandrel to spin the hub up on and it will be used for the rear hub as well.
Also looked at tire after tire after tire. This one has a wire bead and has Kevlar threading. It is a 2.00" and in the end of the whole endeavor i am hoping to produce a speedway bike image coupled with Treens vision of beauty.
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Next up the rear wheel. Same story here. I can't even begin to tell you the countless hours I have spent looking for this guy! But both front and rear rims have some fine qualities. Double wall. Stainless eyelets in the front one. The front one will be powder coated to match the rear and as soon as I get a hold of Wayne on the phone I will order up some spokes. Spokes are a whole 'nother story. I have followed several spoke length calculators and have machined the front hub with a flange diameter close enough to match up the ERD(effective rim dia.) to be able to use the stock front spokes of a Simplex. The rear will most probably have to be threaded a bit more but there are a few bikes shops here in town that actually have spoke threading machines.( i was excited let me tell ya!) The rim is 3" and the tire was advertised as a 3.45 but when installed actually measures about an 1/8" less. And the beauty is it looks like it is all going to fit!!!!
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Looks like some real nice work there , Tom . But you might want to poke some holes in that rear hub for the spokes and it looks to me like you should install a head on that motor before you try a spark plug . (http://www.cb750c.com/modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_lol.gif)
Pete . :)
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Also couldn't find the correct size bonded bushing to hold up the front of my tank. Sounds easy but couldn't manage it so made my own. 1 and 1/2" wide X .875" dia. And then some sexy little screws to keep it all in tact!
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Wow--A lot of work,but it's going to be a beauty!
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I knew I didn't want to use regular bolts and let the seat pivot wear right on the threads so I found some stainless shoulder bolts. These ones had large alan heads on them for a special application of some kind so I was able to machine the head down to give them a nice sleek button head look.
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Tom, your work is awesome! I wish I had the equipment and TALENT you have!
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Thanks for the bid of confidence guys. I am very fortunate to have the equipment at work at my disposal. Lets me think outside of the box more often. My lathe is the handiest thing ever but the mill at work is sure nice to have! It's CNC so you just find a datum point and program what you want to happen. Works off of the cartesian scale.
Just got back from a trial run bending the exhaust. Planning on stainless exhaust but using regular pipe for trial bends until i get all the angles right. I am determined to have this ride in Portland this year so I try not to go to bed each night with out doing something on it.
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Made this clutch cover last night. Didn't want the clutch shoes and springs exposed. Purely for aesthetics. And maybe my pant leg!!
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Amazing Tom, like to see the process. I also wish I had your talent.
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From paper to reality! These drawings are how some of my parts started out. The plasma cutting is nearly like cheating because if you can think it it pretty much can be done.
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Hey Tom, that seat pan looks a lot like a popcorn scoop. Should be pretty simple, just cut it out and then do a little hammering, lol
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You mean to tell me you haven't got those done yet!!! Send me a photo with a ruler along side it and I will see how quick I can get them made... :o
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This is where I am at right now. I have the rear hub to machine yet. I have a sample of my exhaust bent up but will probably go at another one of those to finalize it before bending the final piece out of stainless tube. Working on getting the master cylinder mounted up near the pedal and will need a longer hose for that. It will the stock simplex pedal.
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nice work Kart....why did you choose chain over belt? just curious
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Very nice , Tom .
I'm envious that you have access to quality machining tools .
Umm , I take it you don't use the front door much ? ;)
Pete . :)
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Kart....what boag tire is that and what size? looks good on there ....is it simplex wheel?
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Bruce, Originally I had planned to run belt drives for both. Go karts used to run belt drives back in the '80s and '90s. they were called Pfeifer Drives and the company is still making some items but the popularity in karting is gone and I couldn't find the rear cog sprocket. Plus in the end of it all I realized unless I widened the frame it wasn't going to work anyway. So I went with a rear chain and stayed with the look of the belt on the front. It's a nickel plated size 41 chain.
The rear tire is a 26" X 3.45 and I am not exactly sure who manufactures the rim but have kept all my receipts. I canvased the net for that fender and couldn't believe it when I found an exact fit to hug the tire perfectly. I decided I wasn't going with anything out there and would customize all I could.
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Another pic showing fender set up. I will be shortening the fender bracket so it will bolt to the rear drop out. The other pic shows bolt holes I put in while I had the mount in the mill to put the engine mounting holes. That way all the holes are square and parrallel to each other. Hopefully one day I can incorporate a starter of some kind maybe using a small serpentine belt and machine small vee grooves into the O.D. of the flywheel.But that vision is still stuck behind my retinas!
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Looking good!
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Wow: You are setting the benchmark HIGH.
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At the lathe today machining the rear hub. Made the second model for the exhaust header also. And have been pondering my intake and carb set-up. Thinking slide type Mikuni.
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"Thinking slide type Mikuni."
They've been reliable and easy to tune for a long time .
Pete . :)
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Kart: Why is your engine mount bent down in front?
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Makes the base of the engine parallel to the ground and also the engine oil level from front to back. Plus offers a spot to put my 'make-believe' starter when I figure it out!
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A couple of pics of my progress from yesterday. I went one step up on the rear bearings then the front. They have a 3/4" ID and a 1 3/4" OD. Then I tapped the shaft to accept 1/2 bolts and plan to use chain adjusters. The hub is to size width wise but the diameter is at +.050 and I will finish to size soon. The sprocket bolts just showed up in the mail today and I was hoping so as I need to finalize the bolt circle for the sprocket.
I talked to Wayne about my spokes and have some coming plus an original crank stuffer. Although I made a damn nice version of one it is still not original. And I know it. Rick, I think you know how I am about that kind of stuff! Also have stainless exhaust material on the way. And although the engine has all the work done to it already I still need to order a cam for it. (and maybe a billet flywheel)
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Tom ,
If you would , Please post a pic or two of that crank stuffer when you get it .
And , you might take a look at a jetski starter . They are fairly small and might just mount where you have the 45° in the front of the motor mount plate .
Pete . :)
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Spokes came today. Talked to Wayne on Sunday. That is fast!
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Whittled this out on the mill today. Made of stainless to go along with the tube.
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Good thing it's for someone you know , Tom . Or they'd have one of those 10,000 dollar bikes . ;)
Nice work .
Pete . :)
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A billet flywheel is cheap insurance for any motor turning over 3600rpms. Assuming your removal of the governor, you'll also want to upgrade your valve springs to prevent valve float when you do it. Richer jets and emulsion tube also goes with free flowing air and exhaust.
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I am with you on all of this. Ran some kart motors with all of that. Logged into the middle 8K revs (and it just kept pullin'!) This one won't be quite all that but here's what I have planned. Fixed hub billet flywheel. Has the key way pushed up to 30 degrees to help with the cam profile(that's from stock 20 degrees). This alone will bring a B&S out of hybernation! Stainless valves with Comp springs set. Pointless coil. .316" lift (stock is .232") so not drastic plus it has any easy lobe ramp so it won't be too harsh on the rest of the valve train. Flathead Briggs motors are actually harder on the mains then they are on the rod. This one has the ball bearings on the mains and a decent rod going in it. I have a flat slide Mikuni coming that I want to try. Plus this carb should supply some of that 'abstract' look! It's had the ports all polished and matched. Not planning on revvin' it terribly and the ratio to the rear wheel should keep things calm. Plus I don't want something I have to work on all the time. Planning on getting it dirty!
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Today's progress! I should have the rear hub ready for bearings and spokes by the end of this coming weekend. I thought the sprocket looked a little more copesetic with 8 holes instead of just 4.
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Wheels are off to the powder coaters. Rear hub is done and just needs to be polished. Forget about walking on the moon....this is a giant leap right here on earth for this bike. After the rims are laced up there will be a few clearance checks then I can finalize welding on the frame. Whew!
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I also talked to a bike shop that will thread my spokes after I cut them to length. Evidently spoke threads are rolled not cut. And after a closer look this does appear to be so with Waynes' spokes too. I will build a quick jig to hook the hub end of the spoke in to, clamp the smooth part of the spoke in the vise(smooth jaws) and then let the mill cut them to exact length. Just 36 of them!
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Tom, will you have it ready for Portland?
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I think so Rick. Battling a carb clearance issue but I will get around it. Should all begin to click along once frame is welded. I am pretty sure I have all the parts I need now to finish the engine, etc.
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Good luck on the threading those spokes. I tried some and it just didnt wont to go.
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I got my spokes cut to length today. So off to the bike shop on Monday to have them threaded.. Maybe spokes and wheels and hubs will all be ready at the same time so should be lacing the wheels soon.
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I bought my spokes from the man in Ohio who is always at Portland. Reasonable priced. Oh he supplies Wayne.
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Butch; would you share the spoke guy's contact information? Thanks
Will
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Sure--Stainless Steel Spokes in Rootstown, OHIO - He may sell only wholesale but I bought right from him at Portland.
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After much disappointment I will be threading my own 10 gauge spokes at Home! I have a thread rolling die on the way!!
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Wow: You have everything (At home) cool.
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Why were the rolled threads a problem?
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I was told that the bike shop here in town could do them by one of their own employees but when I actually went there the guy that treads them had little desire and no confidence in is own ability. They did have a threading machine but still am unsure if they possess a 10 ga. die. So I called everywhere within a 50 mile radius and mostly ended up with the run around. So I figure a spoke treading die will just have to be part of the expense. And one will be here this week. 10 ga. spoke dies are quite uncommon. I found that not many places bother with 10 ga. and that Cyclo spoke threaders don't even offer 10 ga. dies.
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Hozan 10 ga. rolling head on Ebay now.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Hozan-C-700-Spoke-Screwing-Machine-10-Gauge-Thread-Rolling-Head-G100-/181341755389?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a38cf97fd&vxp=mtr
Will
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That is who I got it from but offered him less. he may very well be the only one that has any to sell. I have looked high and low! Trying to finalize my wheels in days not weeks but I could have sent spokes off too. Buchannons in California would gave done them.
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I couldn't put up with the cheap plastic ones so made my own. Powder coating on my rims turned out good. Had them both done so they would match. I had them prepped for him. $15 per rim. The color is called silver explosion. Its not really metal flake but it does sparkle in the sunlight.
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Lookin good Tom.
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Tom ,
They look great . What are they good for ?
(http://www.simplexservi-cycle.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=675.0;attach=5547;image)
Pete . :)
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A picture with the '48 for comparison. The 'S2' actually sits pretty well. About a 56" wheelbase and 3" off the ground at the lowest spot. The '48 is 5" off the ground. Stock length kick stand works perfect now!
Turned out 1" lower than originally thought but is because of the lower profile front tire probably. Last mock up before powder coaters! Still have to work out a kick starter one day and lighting. Should be burning gas in time for Portland.
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Looking sporty! Have you test run the motor on the bench?
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Not yet! But plan to soon.
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Looks great.
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Looks good Tom, what color are going with? Did you make the exhaust?....Really cool
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Almost an emerald green with some like flake. I did make the exhaust. Once the powder coating is done I can put everything together...And go for a spin!!! I saw that you called but haven't has a Chance to call you back.
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I was wanting to know if you had a way to cut out the compression cover and drill all the holes. I had a guy make me a brass plaque for the hope chest I am building, and had him in grave names on it. I thought it would be cool to make a compression cover out of solid brass and have the simplex logo in graved in it. He said he can't cut the circle, but he can get solid sheets of brass 12"x24".
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I make can make the covers. Yours would be a 12 bolt right? I have a 12 bolt cover to get dimensions from.
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How are you coming on the build Tom? Haven't seen any updates for a while. You gonna show us pics on here, or wait til Portland for the official unveil??
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Took a 10 day reprieve down in Virginia! But the bike is at the powder coaters now. hoping to pick it up this Friday. Since the pictures I have made a bracket for the rear of the tail pipe.
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Talked to the guy about the sheet of brass, he is wanting to do it, but I think I will wait till winter , too many coals in the fire right now. If you have a way of cutting the covers out and drilling the holes, it would be nice to get as many done out of the 12x24 sheet as will allow. I didn't realize there were different sizes, we could do some of both sizes if you want. Different engravings also.
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That'll look pretty slick when done , Tom .
Pete . :)
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Thanks. Looking forward to the finale myself! I have all of the bolts bagged and tagged. Assembly should go together smoothly.
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I am not dead yet either Rick! Picking mine up from the powder coaters tomorrow. Can't wait!!
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I am not dead yet either Rick! Picking mine up from the powder coaters tomorrow. Can't wait!!
Can't wait to see it!
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Parts are back fro the powder coaters! I immediately put the seat together. Turned out really nice. A lot of the parts are already on the frame so I am making progress to get it to the show.
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I would bet you will have it running by the end of the weekend! Looking Good!
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really nice :)
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My WOW factor. I milled the letters about 1/16 inch deep then painted down in them to match the rest of the bike. The sprocket was powder coated in chrome.
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Tom, are you really going to let that bike get all dirty at Portland? Lol. It will take hours to clean it up when you get home.
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Braided fuel line for the S2. Should add a couple of horsepower!
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By the I calulate it figures to be 2.000185 and a half per metric ounce. Yea
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After many many months the S2 is down on rubber and out in broad daylight!
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After many many months the S2 is down on rubber and out in broad daylight!
No pictures?
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Some things to finish up yet. Throttle kit from Wayne is very nice but is requirein a lot of finess. Many loose ends the photo doesn't show but it will be in Portland!
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Looking good! I have used 3 of Wayne's throttles, and I have found they need to be cleaned up on the inside with a tootsie roll to work smoothly.
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Ive done exactly that. Kind of tricky getting the cable to attached also. Tomorrows project. Repacking wheel bearings on the trailer too. getting time to pack and be ready to go!
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looking good Tom. Can't waitto see it in person.
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Wow is right!! Beautiful
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I am about done with the throttle. Lots of time. If I had to do it all over again I think I would make my own throttle like the earlier design but make it twist the normal way. Much easier to install. I did not get p/n770 and had to make it plus p/n 767 and 768 required fitting. And if I used the early style I wouldn't have had to alter the length of the handlebar and notch it either.
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I am about done with the throttle. Lots of time. If I had to do it all over again I think I would make my own throttle like the earlier design but make it twist the normal way. Much easier to install. I did not get p/n770 and had to make it plus p/n 767 and 768 required fitting. And if I used the early style I wouldn't have had to alter the length of the handlebar and notch it either.
Part 770 is not used on Wayne's setup, as he uses much thicker metal and it is not necessary.
The first time I did one, it took a while to figure it out. After that, they go together quickly.
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I'M BURNING GAS!!!!! Mikuni is hittin' good right out of the box. Good response so far and aluminum flywheel is doing its thing. Exhaust is pretty snappy sounding.
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Finale Pics! I know in the beginning pics this bike appeared to be awkward to ride but it feels good!
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That thing is lookin' tuff Tom....how fast does it run?
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Very Nice , Tom .
I do like the drive line brake , for sure .
Pete . :)
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I have been planning my lighting. I will have a headlight(LED) and two taillights. One LED round that fit nicely via a grommet in the end of each lower tube of the frame. But as much as I ride it I will not be running a charging system as I have opted for an open kicker similar to a factory Simplex style. So the lights will be battery operated but being all LED the current draw should be quite minimal. And this battery is awesome. It is rated for 6 amp hours and is capable of supplying 120CCA. Measures 4" tall, 6" wide and 2" deep. Building a box for it and will use the bolt hole already in my engine mount on the slant just ahead of the engine. All of the wires are concealed except for right under the headlight itself. Question is do I make the battery box polished stainless or powder coat it like the rest of the bike.
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Go for the BLING!!
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Agreed , BLING !!!
Amazing they can pack that much in that small case .
Pete . :)
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For those that may have wondered. The tallies are in! Looks like this project broke the $4200 mark. Don't know what that means about myself or the bike but that is the line in the sand. But hey, its either stainless, chrome and hi-octane or nothing!!!
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Ha . Seems to me that line in the sand can change in a wink .
Go for the Gold . After all , it's your happiness we're talking about . ;)
Pete . :)
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Took the day off from work today to get my battery mounting bracket and newly configured brake pedal out to the powder coaters. Plus took the S2 around to a couple of guys that helped out along the way. Planning on going out to take some quality photos for the wall! I have began the kicker set-up and now have to pick up some good material to make the kick part out of. It should function just as a Simplex kicker but have a twist of style to go along with the rest of the bike. It looks like the sector gear works off of a 4 1/2 inch radius swing.
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Based on what I've seen of your work in your posts, I'm sure the kicker will be as awesome looking as the rest of the bike.
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My new brake pedal. And then it was sooo nice! Much easier to use with my heel on the footboard.
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Looks like its workable.
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The beginning of my kicker for the S2! Took one of Wayne's pinions and modified it to fit my Briggs crank. Treads are bigger on a Briggs so popped it in the lathe and opened it up to a 5/8 tread. I also bought his sector gear kit but will make my own kick pedal.
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Tom I wish I knew you were looking for a pinion gear. I've got one that didnt have threads in it and I'm about to cut mine into two pieces. Oh well maybe next time. Do you still have those panels we were talking about. ???
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Tom how is the battery project going? would like to see how you mount it, and how everything works.
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I have the bracket powder coated and bolted on that it will sit on and also have the steel for the box plus some stainless perforated stuff to dress it up. Just brought the steel to work today so I can cut it to size. Should be able to hide all of the wires. I will be removing the engine to further the kicker set-up soon.
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My battery box. The tin box on the inside will be powder coated to match the bike to produce some contrast to the stainless perforated steel outer box. The foam liner is adhesive backed and will be stuck inside to protect the battery.
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Nice looking work,
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Where will you be putting the battery box on a simplex.
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Just in front of the engine on a horizontal bracket I already have on. All of my wires can be hidden this way, including tail lights and head light. I will post a pic after awhile.
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Looks pretty tuff Tom.
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Not sure if I like the look of the perforated steel or not! It only wraps around it so I could stay with just the inner box. Probably will look quite different once the box has color on it.
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It kinda looks like an oil cooler or radiator sitting there...pretty cool
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Conversation piece ? ;)
It kinda fits the 'this is not a stock' Simplex theme .
Pete . :)
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Is that the seam there in front if so turn it around make the front seamless but it looks like it should be there. 8)
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Yeah it will be the other way after color. Just set it on for pic. No bolts yet.
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My kicker plate and shaft is done and the steel is on the way for the kick starter! So chips will be flying again soon!
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After some delays I am back on my kicker. I was told that to have it cut out via an EDM would be costly as they are quite slow especially at the thickness I have. They sent me to a water jet guy. He said he was two months behind but I left him a copy of the print to quote it anyhow but that was two weeks ago!. Mostly I was just trying to utilize a different method for fun. Ended up back on the mill. I used a piece of A2 tool steel which will give it some physical integrity. From what I have read A2 tempers at low temperatures and maybe it will assume some tempering in the powder coating process. I have about 4 hours in it now and still have about that much to go I think. Comparison picture shows obvious work left. In reality I will have about 20 hours into the entire set-up making it pretty easy to understand Wayne's pricing. Planning on staying on it so I am ready for the Plain City meet in May. I will get it powder coated and also the battery box. Just want to group together all of my stray pieces for powder coating. By then I will have the 'easy-on' tachometer installed.
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Good thing you like playing around with this stuff , Tom .
Looking good , so far . ;)
Pete . :)
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Tom's work is awesome!
We are sitting here getting snowed on again! I can't wait for the nice weather so I can take one of my bikes for a ride.
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Back at the kicker this weekend. Getting closer! Short foot pin is just for trial fit until right one comes in mail this week. Plus I will be cutting down the round part when I have secured the correct length for it. Then press in bronze bushings and hone to fit the shaft.
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What is every ones take on the upper linkage ole on the kicker side of the linkage. My 48 as a larger hole there then the bottom one is and seems to have been made that way as it appears to be nice and round and not wallered to one side or something.
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What is every ones take on the upper linkage ole on the kicker side of the linkage. My 48 as a larger hole there then the bottom one is and seems to have been made that way as it appears to be nice and round and not wallered to one side or something.
That is factory. Wayne said it needs to have the play to work correctly, but I bushed one of mine with bronze bushings to the same size as the pin and I it works better, imho. No slop, better gear engagement.
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Maybe I wont secure the pins permanently until I kick it through a couple of times.
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I have my sector gear bushed also . It seems to be a good fit with a tighter action .
My pinion gear is original . Exactly how worn it is ??? It's teeth seems to fill the sector gear teeth nicely , so I can't imagine that it's very far gone .
Pete . :)
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I milled the radius on the back of sector gear to match radius on kicker. Wayne as these sectors hardened. Case hardening was about .035 deep. had to use carbide cutter to do it!
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Don't think I ever followed up with any pics of treading my spokes so am posting now. At testing I found mild steel spokes will roll with one go at them. The stainless ones I didn't push and made them in two passes. Less stress on die and seem to be better. Used lots of oil also. Went fast. Think I did 36 in an hour or so. Maybe a little longer.
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Neat little cutter , Tom .
Pete . :)
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My new clutch for the S2 was delivered today! Woohoo!! Just need to move the bike to the warm workshop downstairs. Also have some material purchased to sew a cover it for it.
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My new clutch for the S2 was delivered today! Woohoo!! Just need to move the bike to the warm workshop downstairs. Also have some material purchased to sew a cover it for it.
Can I put in an order for a cover?
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Old School Mini Bike Frank has invited me to display my green custom at the Autorama show in Detroit. He said he is compiling about twenty bikes and wants mine there. Should be fun plus I get a four day pass to the show!. Told him we plan to do it and will be getting with him soon to prepare for it. The show isn't until March 2018. He says one never knows who you might run into there(celebrity wise) so should be exciting! Probably going to make a cool stand out of stainless steel to display it on as he wants to put it up on a table of some kind.
Should be interesting!!
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Sounds like a fun 'project' , Tom .
Pete . :)
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Great--I'll be there at that show (spectator) I know Frank the Bank .Cool guy. LOL
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So Travis spotted my extra horn and said "the green custom needs a horn dad"!. So here it is. Powder coater guy stocks my color now. What luck! Plus he coated it for free. (I have more work lining up for him anyways).
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Truly custom . I'm not sure , but , I don't think the factory ever offered a metal flake green ... LOL
Looks pretty good from here , Tom .
Pete . :)
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That's a nice detail Tom!
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You gotta love LEDs! This battery has been operating off a single charge since I installed it 5 years ago. Travis even left it on all night. Lots of times he rides around during the day with them on to show them off. So this morning I am recharging as the taillights have became quite dim. Will be heading to car and bike show down near Detroit in a few hours. Picking up Travis on the way out of town.