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January 19, 2018, 02:31:12 PM

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Author Topic: sediment bowl  (Read 277 times)
carryall
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« Reply #15 on: January 03, 2018, 03:25:13 PM »

I'll look into that.  That sounds like the ticket to have a rubber sleeve that seals between both the wall of the plastic line and the barb.  As for the sediment bowl, I wish there was a small sediment bowl that also had a filter in it like the old model A had.  Wonder if a guy could adapt a small paper filter with a spring in the bottom? 
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carryall
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« Reply #16 on: January 06, 2018, 07:28:40 AM »

I tried the braided stainless line but didn't really like the look of it with the multiple brass fittings I ended up needing to connect different sized lines. (1/4", 3/16", 5/32") so I went ahead and replaced everything with new rubber fuel lines and barbs then used the chrome cover over it.  It had me "stumped" at first when I opened the petcock on the bowl and only a coupe drops came out tho.  I had forgotten to open up the carbs petcock to allow fuel/air flow thru. LOL.  Fuel line now seems to "flow back" towards exhaust I think.  I did notice a warning on the sediment bowl to not use any fuel containing more than 10% ethanol but, that's not a issue since I always use "real" gas in all of my bikes regardless.       
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RickS
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« Reply #17 on: January 06, 2018, 07:42:55 AM »

Looking good Paul!  I think the warning about ethanol is because those made in China fuel bowls use a rubber gasket, and we all know what happens to rubber in ethanol.  Wayne does have cork gaskets as replacements for those, so if you haven’t already, have him send you a couple next time you order from him.
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carryall
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« Reply #18 on: January 06, 2018, 07:59:55 AM »

I would guess there's rubber gaskets inside where the on/off valve goes thru also that would need replacement you think?  (BTW, it's made in Taiwan LOL)
« Last Edit: January 06, 2018, 08:01:59 AM by carryall » Logged
pd
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« Reply #19 on: January 06, 2018, 09:25:14 AM »

That might just do the job , Paul .

You're right about a small 'seal' . It's held in place by the brass nut around the screw .
I wouldn't think you'd have to replace either gasket for a long while using pure gas .

Pete . Smiley
« Last Edit: January 06, 2018, 09:49:00 AM by pd » Logged

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RickS
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« Reply #20 on: January 06, 2018, 10:20:47 AM »

Paul, I would assume you are correct, but I didn't have any issue with that on the only import one I have used.  The main gasket started leaking within a couple of months.  Here in NY we can not buy real gas, some I'm stuck with the ethanol crap.
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kartjockey
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« Reply #21 on: January 06, 2018, 11:32:48 AM »

I have seen those have a fiber washer behind the packing nut and then the needle valve seats metal to metal much the way a float valve is.
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pd
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« Reply #22 on: January 06, 2018, 12:04:32 PM »

 
I have seen those have a fiber washer behind the packing nut and then the needle valve seats metal to metal much the way a float valve is.

My original Simplex bowl valve had a fiber washer . I replaced it with gas rated thread tape which seems to be working nicely .
I had a cork gasket from Wayne installed . It lasted maybe two years before disintegration . I'm pretty sure ethanol had to do with that . Currently I have a rubber gasket used by Briggs & Stratton ( # 692190 ) and that seems to be doing it's job .

Pete . Smiley
Pete . Smiley
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carryall
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« Reply #23 on: January 06, 2018, 12:55:02 PM »

Thanks all of you for the info and sharing your experience and knowledge.  Hopefully I won't have any issues for awhile.  Either way, I may order/find replacements to have on hand "in-case" and add them to my spare parts box.  
« Last Edit: January 06, 2018, 01:00:12 PM by carryall » Logged
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