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December 14, 2017, 12:08:23 PM

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LARRYBROWN
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« Reply #15 on: October 25, 2012, 05:28:14 PM »

 I think I'll pull some of my stuff out of the mothballs tomorrow , and see what I can come up with , I was thinking of a solution to the flywheel priblem myself ,,, maybe a two inch wide piece of seven inch pipe with magnets attached ,  4 inch wide  3/8 bar across the middle with a hole to accept the taper hole center and key ?    all it is is work.
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pd
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« Reply #16 on: October 25, 2012, 05:36:48 PM »

Definitely let us know what you come up with . Take a bunch of pics , too . Smiley
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LARRYBROWN
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« Reply #17 on: October 25, 2012, 06:17:01 PM »

  I like the ying-yang avatar ,,,  a couple of budweisers and  watching that and I'm happy for hours Grin
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pd
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« Reply #18 on: October 25, 2012, 09:32:52 PM »

Happy to oblige . Smiley
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pd
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« Reply #19 on: October 26, 2012, 06:37:04 PM »

I glued and clamped the detached flywheel magnet into place .

I'm still hearing a slight draggy , not really a grind , noise . More felt than heard . Sad
Bearing time and , of course  , seal .

Is there a better replacement main bearing available ? Seal ?

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LARRYBROWN
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« Reply #20 on: October 26, 2012, 08:20:31 PM »

  When I felt the need for  top end work , the engine came out for total overhaul , ( meaning new bearings , that way the rotary valve assembly would stay in check , " the old watched pot adage "    )  I use premium bearings from skf ,   I've learned to toss them before they get loose to prevent rotary valve failure ,   cheers   Larry.
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LARRYBROWN
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« Reply #21 on: October 26, 2012, 08:32:27 PM »

 as an afterthought , try to spray paint a little color on the magnets to see exactly where  : and what is rubbing ,  a little file work in the right place can make stuff work so much better,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Tongue
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pd
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« Reply #22 on: October 27, 2012, 06:55:07 PM »

Larry ,

Can you post the SKF bearing #s , Please ? ( all 3 )
And what seal do you use ?

I haven't had the crank out of the case , yet . Where is the rotary valve located ? I didn't see it in the crank parts diagram . Or , is the rotary valve used in earlier models ?
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pd
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« Reply #23 on: October 27, 2012, 08:03:01 PM »

My fuel tank has just a bit of surface rust inside , so I have Wood Bleach on order .
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LARRYBROWN
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« Reply #24 on: October 27, 2012, 08:29:28 PM »

   Hello    the stationary half of the rotary valve is the cerankcase between the two big main bearings ,,, the rotary half is the crankshaft ,  It will be apparent when it comes apart ,  feel free to call me    314 609 6568     all the best ,,  Larry. Grin
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pd
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« Reply #25 on: November 03, 2012, 09:38:36 PM »

Thank you for the 'invite' Larry . I may just do that . Smiley

I tore my motor apart this evening .

I was able to see seal and bearing #s with the exception of the left main bearing ( next to the crank counter weight ) . Could someone please tell me what that bearing # is ?

That left bearing is the only bearing that has a bit of a growl . I intend replacing all the bearings and seal .

6 years . Long enough for me to have forgotten the unique piston skirt design of the Simplex motor .

The rotary valve is an interesting design also . I wonder if anyone has tried opening the crankshaft 'intake' hole to broaden or possibly quicken the draw time for fuel intake ?

Speaking of intake , what is the purpose of the hole at the bottom of the intake tunnel ? It angles downward to a hole inside the base mount 'towers' . It is plugged at the bottom with something fairly soft .

And what purpose does the screw just under the carb mount have ?



« Last Edit: August 28, 2017, 05:13:28 PM by pd » Logged

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pd
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« Reply #26 on: November 03, 2012, 09:52:45 PM »

It's been about 2 weeks since I posted pics of my stator .

No one has commented on the ignition coil . I have to wonder if it looks like one of Wayne's 'new' replacements .

« Last Edit: August 28, 2017, 05:14:29 PM by pd » Logged

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kartjockey
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« Reply #27 on: November 04, 2012, 06:15:59 AM »

I have a '48 hitting on one plug so I bought a coil from Wayne this passed summer when I was in Portland just in case my coil quits completely.  Can't help you too much with any questions on the later blocks.  But to answer that intake opening question.  I think it would be a touchy timing issue with the relationship between base pressure and cylinder pressure. May gain on one but lose on the other. A person might have to study where the factory has it then mark desired opening size on rotary valve and see where and how quickly you get results. Maybe even use a degree wheel.
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kartjockey
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« Reply #28 on: November 04, 2012, 06:25:44 AM »

Where did you come up with your coil from?  Wonder if it hits harder then the one I posted.  Like the old Briggs coils where a guy had to hardly flip the crank with his hand and he would see a spark. I know my kart coils on briggs looked the same dimensionally but had different windings and became saturated more easily raising the output to 40,000 volts.
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pd
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« Reply #29 on: November 04, 2012, 11:40:48 AM »

"Where did you come up with your coil from? "

That coil is from a 'same period' outboard motor stator that had dual coils and points . The stator was produced by Phelon and the coil is a perfect fit , as are the points , which are in much better condition than the points that were in my Simplex stator when I got it . The 'new' points are mounted on the Simplex stator in the pic above .

Here's a couple of pics of that outboard stator :



« Last Edit: August 28, 2017, 05:18:41 PM by pd » Logged

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